Embrace old Hollywood style in this apron inspired by 1940 style.
This apron features a body made from 100% Japanese silk with an original pink bamboo pattern.
“This is the most original apron of this style that you will find anywhere. The heart shaped body is simply sweet, and is given a daring sexy accent with black French lace. Silky bottoms? Yes please! This apron/costume finishes to smooth and is lovely to wear.
although I had very reasonable intentions, it did not turn out as I had expected.
I am a harsh and rigid critic of my own work.
I think that it is important to appreciate your good and bad pieces as an artist. It is a part of any journey to becoming something: learning from your mistakes and planning out what to do better next time.
It will be a great feeling to cover up some of these with gesso.
As an artist, one always needs to conserve money and resources.
It totally goes without saying that artist canvas is one of the most expensive items you buy. Each piece requires at least one canvas: there is no way around that!
Once you start getting into you 40th and 50th piece, you can really start feeling the pinch!
Here is my quick guide to making your own stretched art canvas frames for a fraction of the cost of buying it at an art supply store.
12 mm stainless steel staples
8 foot lengths of 2″ x 2″ wood (quantity depends on size of frames you wish to make)
Miter saw (or miter box and hand saw)
Decide on the side of canvas frame you want to have. Keep in mind that the larger your frame, the more supports you will need; so try a small frame (no larger than 2 feet x 2 feet) for your first time.
Measure the lengths of your required pieces from your 8 foot lengths of wood.
Before you cut your wood, check for significant “bows” or crooked parts.Any inconsistently straight parts will make your frame crooked.
Also avoid cutting where the wood has “knots”. Your saw will have a tougher time cutting through knots in wood.
Cut your wood smoothly and carefully. Always wear goggles, and something to cover your nose and mouth from wood dust.
Clear away any mess and start laying out your structure on the floor or your work area.
Lay out your entire structure to ensure that you have measured and cut all proper lengths, and have no missing pieces.
Using wood glue, slather your corners and join them to fit at 90 degrees. The size and thickness of the 2″ x 2″ wood make it easy to have well formed corners, but I recommend confirming the 90 degree angle with a carpenters square.
For this frame, I cut small triangle supports to reinforce the structure and prevent bending. I also used glue to secure these supports at each corner.
Using 12mm stainless steel staples, secure each corner.
There is no set rule of how many staples to use, but since the 12 mm staples are very long and get driven deeply into the wood, I would say that it is safe to use 3- 4 staples for each corner.
Let your new frame dry from 3-6 hours, however I would recommend letting the glue dry overnight.
Once you have let the frame dry, you can stand it up to save space.
Here are some variations I have made in the past.
Note that these have cotton canvas stretched over and stapled in place. I will post a tutorial on this DIY project soon.
Other Finished frames with stretched canvas
Other Finished frames with stretched canvas
If you have any staples that didn’t get driven in all the way, simply use a hammer or mallet to drive them all the way in.
For really large frames, remember to put in cross bars, as well as long wood screws to secure pieces longer than 5 feet.
I wanted to feature this piece specifically because it incorporates lots of gold. I like it so much that I gave it a name;(something I have not made a habit of thus far). It is entitled “Heaven’s gate” as this was the first term that came to my mind when it was completed.
I used gold leaf, green and blue acrylic on this 12 x 6 inch canvas. The only qualm I have with this work is that it isn’t as large as it deserves to be (in my opinion). There is some limited relief and texture in this piece, and the blending is quite well executed.
I have not sold this piece yet, but even if it doesn’t sell I am happy to have it hand on my wall for as long as I am able to.
When I started my Etsy shop two years ago, there were a lot of things I had to do that were totally outside of my comfort zone. One of those things (a huge and important thing) was to learn how to take good and clear photographs. When selling handmade items, one piece of advice that is repeated as gospel is to take clear images in great lighting; that tell a story about the product; and that show off as many details about texture and colour as can be in a high resolution format.
That is a geeky way of saying that you really gotta learn how to make someone buy your product all through sight! Of course there are other factors that help people decide to buy your handmade item, but that’s a topic in a blog post for another day 😉
First thing: employ the ownership of a 3 light lamp on a sturdy stand. 3 lights are best not because of aesthetic, but because they can be moved and aimed to point at your handmade object in a way that enough light hits it. Think: laser beams!
Below we see a photo stage set with a mannequin. In order to get a smooth and uniform backdrop, I hanged a white poly material from the wall. This backdrop is really best when either totally white (or as close as you can get) because the light shined from your lamp needs to be “bounced back” at the camera to ensure a well illuminated photo.
Easy trick to help remember: Optics= studying how light is captured and refracted to enhance/change images. I’m sure there is a more scholarly explanation that that of course; but that’s a basic grade 8 review 🙂
Once the stage is set and the light hits all of the areas that you want to highlight, take a few test pictures to see whether you should use flash (or not); set a widescreen image; or fiddle around with any camera settings that you like to use.
Final product: a cropped image with the brightness and contrast increased slightly.
For a non-professional photograph, I think it captures all of the elements that I had hoped for. I really like how crisp and clear the photo is- you can see the blue chalk lines on the garment (a temporary marking of course) that I used to line up each pocket.
This was an experimental design for an apron to say the least. It was commissioned for a man, so I immediately decided that the shape and function needed to be masculine. Inspired by male characters from video games, I created a slouchy side apron with a diagonal flap. The flap covers three pockets that are hidden, providing full functionality. I hope the clients like this piece, as I think it truly showcases LillyBoChic originality.