The Black Widow

This Christian Louboutin inspired apron is both sexy and traditional at once.


“Plush black material is lined by smooth crimson to create a peekaboo styled apron. On one side it is a black apron; on the other it you a glimpse of a daring red lining. Very innocuous, and very sexy.”

White cotton frills line the top and bottom to finish this apron off with a traditional French Maid style.

Visit the listing at by clicking [here].



Hollywood Charm

Embrace old Hollywood style in this apron inspired by 1940 style.
This apron features a body made from 100% Japanese silk with an original pink bamboo pattern.


“This is the most original apron of this style that you will find anywhere. The heart shaped body is simply sweet, and is given a daring sexy accent with black French lace. Silky bottoms? Yes please! This apron/costume finishes to smooth and is lovely to wear.

Visit to see the listing [here].

New Art: Bow Ties!

I recently discovered an info graphic that was depicted a step by step process of how to make a bow tie.

It was a  tempting offer, since I had a few left over scraps selvages from exquisite materials I had used on earlier projects (*ahem-aprons*). I decided to give it a try, and found:

  • Bow ties are really handsome and can adorn a lot more a neck.
  • They can be made out of any material, and embellished with very different trims and lace- There is no limit to how creative you can get.
  • You can decide how fancy (or un-fancy you would like to make a bow tie depending on the pleats, material, trims, embellishments and style of the tie.
  • And finally: they are so easy to make!

Here are some great links to various styles of bows:

Simple Bow Tie hair clip

Another variation of the same method I used.


Here are photos of what I came up with:


And finally…


I had to try one on- they are too cute to resist! I wore one to work the other day, and it was a hit with my colleagues. Paired with a pale blue dress shirt, gold cuff links, and ultra skinny black pants, my outfit was feminine and chic.

Thanks for reading,







Dressmaking Revisited

I reealllyyyyy wanted a new form fitting dress made from winter jersey material, but I did not want to spend a lot of $$$.

I found a sale (hooray!), and purchased 1.5 Meters of Heather Grey winter jersey material for about  $30 CDN. 

The end result?

I used a cut out technique to create lines that contoured my body shape. This custom made design is extremely form fitting as a result. 

Working with this fabric was tricky because of the intense 4 way stretch. I had to take extra care to triple stitch the seams to avoid embarrassing splits.

The back is secured by a black zipper. 

The lines minimize bulging areas 🙂 

Thanks for reading,

Tapestries and Banners for the Home

I have always found delight in the study of design and art, especially with regard to home decor. When decorating a space, a good designer incorporates colour and texture to diversify elements of the space.

Wall colour, furniture style and accents are the basic parts of the decor of a room; but the addition of trim, mouldings, rugs, sculptures, and the use of tapestries can enrich the decor and overall enjoyment of the environment in a space.

I made a very unique find the other day while shopping at my fabric supplier and was able to create a beautiful tapestry to hang on my wall.


As you can see, it is a gorgeous, red jacquard material with medium sized dragons embroidered in a not too overwhelming pattern.

(I say not too overwhelming because I can imagine an entire sofa upholstered  in this material and I think that there would definitely be too many dragons)

I purchased enough material to make 3 tapestries, each about 1.5 Meters long and 50 cm wide. I added a black and tan fringe to the bottom, to accent the inverted triangle at the bottom. I think that by finishing the piece in this way, gives it more texture and looks more pleasing to the eye.


I mounted one of the tapestries to the wall in my foyer, as I am in the process of redecorating the area. Meanwhile the other two will make great unique gifts for Christmas.

Thanks for reading,



A Knit Dress 

A few years ago I bought a vintage Sonia Rykiel dress that fit me perfectly, but was a little short.

The design of the dress is a knitted sweater fabric with a high collar and short sleeves.

I decided to  copy the design and make a similar dress.

I took measurements of my body (bust, waist, hips and desired length) and used these as guidelines. I always do this to ensure that the pattern I will draft from the garment will not be too small. 

I drafted the shape of the dress in the first piece of my patter without the sleeve or neck collar- I think it is important to draft these separately so that the recreated design is true to the original garment’s construction. 

Since the original dress is a knit- I was careful to select a material that had some stretch. The Rayon floral print I chose had a bit of lycra woven into it, so it had the stretch I was hoping for. 


The final product is as follows:


I like the way the project turned out- although I am not pleased with the zipper I installed in the back. I hate zippers.

They rarely work for me, and I frequently end up with bulky zipper seams that pop up and look terrible to me- but of course in order to become good at installing zippers, I have to install many more zippers. 

Thanks for reading, and be sure to check back soon





$$Save Money$$ Make your own stretched canvas frames

As an artist, one always needs to conserve money and resources.

It totally goes without saying that artist canvas is one of the most expensive items you buy. Each piece requires at least one canvas: there is no way around that!

Once you start getting into you 40th and 50th piece, you can really start feeling the pinch!

Here is my quick guide to making your own stretched art canvas frames for a fraction of the cost of buying it at an art supply store.

Own Art Canvas Ad


  • Staple gun
  • 12 mm stainless steel staples
  • 8 foot lengths of 2″ x 2″ wood (quantity depends on size of frames you wish to make)
  • Miter saw (or miter box and hand saw)
  • Wood glue

Decide on the side of canvas frame you want to have. Keep in mind that the larger your frame, the more supports you will need; so try a small frame (no larger than 2 feet x 2 feet) for your first time.

Measuring your wood

Measure the lengths of your required pieces from your 8 foot lengths of wood.

8 Foot lengths laid on garage floor

Before you cut your wood, check for significant “bows” or crooked parts.Any inconsistently straight parts will make your frame crooked.

Also avoid cutting where the wood has “knots”. Your saw will have a tougher time cutting through knots in wood.

Miter Saw cutting at marked and measured point on wood

Cut your wood smoothly and carefully. Always wear goggles, and something to cover your nose and mouth from wood dust.

Measure twice and cut once! Always mark where you need to cut on your wood with an easily visible pencil or pen.

Clear away any mess and start laying out your structure on the floor or your work area.

Arrange your structure to align at 90 degree angles on the floor

Lay out your entire structure to ensure that you have measured and cut all proper lengths, and have no missing pieces.

Align your pieces to meet at 90 degrees

Using wood glue, slather your corners and join them to fit at 90 degrees. The size and thickness of the 2″ x 2″ wood make it easy to have well formed corners, but I recommend confirming the 90 degree angle with a carpenters square.

Use enough glue! When you put your corners together, glue should squeeze out from all sides.

For this frame, I cut small triangle supports to reinforce the structure and prevent bending. I also used glue to secure these supports at each corner.

Staple Time! Use lots of 12 mm staples to secure each corner.

Using 12mm stainless steel staples, secure each corner.

There is no set rule of how many staples to use, but since the 12 mm staples are very long and get driven deeply into the wood, I would say that it is safe to use 3- 4 staples for each corner.

Ready to start drying!

Let your new frame dry from 3-6 hours, however I would recommend letting the glue dry overnight.

Once you have let the frame dry, you can stand it up to save space.

Here are some variations I have made in the past.

Note that these have cotton canvas stretched over and stapled in place. I will post a tutorial on this DIY project soon.


If you have any staples that didn’t get driven in all the way, simply use a hammer or mallet to drive them all the way in.
For really large frames, remember to put in cross bars, as well as long wood screws to secure pieces longer than 5 feet.


Thanks for stopping by,